The title makes it sound much more epic than it was.
The border I refer to is the one between the districts of Miraflores and Barranco.
See. Not as epic.
However, the places we were heading to for a sunny Saturday afternoon happened to be on either side of this border.
The weather was sunny, but not too hot, so we had decided to bike.
^My bike is the red one at the front. How Cambridge is that?!
Now biking in Lima is not as scary as it sounds, although I know people that would never, ever do it in a million years.
I love to bike, and when I was home in Cambridge I used to bike everywhere, so for me biking is just a natural form of transport.
When I moved to Lima, everyone thought I was a little bit mental due to the nature of the traffic on the roads in Lima, but I’ve actually found that the traffic is not so bad to cyclists at all times. Also, if you find a good route with good roads, you are set. I actually advise sometimes taking a slightly wigglier route with less traffic, as the roads will be clearer and sometimes better quality than the main thoroughfares.
The only thing I would say is be super wary of, and possibly avoid if you can, cycling at night. There are a huge number of reasons why, but a nice day time cycle beats fighting traffic and people in the dark any day of the week!
Both Miraflores and Barranco welcome bicycles so you should have no problem in finding places to park your bikes. Both of the following places have their own bike parks on site.
Our first stop on the Miraflores side of the border was Perúpa’ti.
They have only been open for 4 weeks, so still very new in Lima, and they have such an interesting concept, bringing a variety of types of Peruvian cuisine, products and culture into one relaxed and casual space.
The building is home to 7 different areas (run by Peruvian’s who are experts in their specific fields) where you can sit and order food or drinks, dependent on the time of day or what you are looking for. You can even choose to sit in one area but order from all 7, but we decided to wander around from place to place to better experience the environment.
As you come in the front entrance, you will find a map in front of you showing you what you can find in all the different corners of the building.
After that, someone will greet you with a Perúpa’ti Card.
This allows you to scan in all of your orders and then just pay in one place at the end. It makes it much easier money wise. (If there is no lady, or man, then just head to the cashier straight in front of you in the middle of the building and they will issue you with one).
To the left of the entrance is the bar, serving juices, sours, chilcanos and everything else in between.
To the right is the bakery, Barra Migas, and naturally this was our starting point. From here you can order sandwiches, loaves of bread or even pastries.
The bakery is run by Renato Peralta, a Cordon Bleu graduate and top baker here in Peru, so I knew the bread would be excellent quality.
We started with a warm curried chicken and avocado croissant.
I loved it, because it reminded me of the coronation chicken sandwiches we have in the UK, and I have a big love of those! My boyfriend on the other hand was eyeing up someone else’s sandwich de jamón glaseado (glazed ham sandwich), which also looked pretty amazing.
To go, we bought a huge portion of focaccia for S/15 (perfect warmed in the oven with a little butter or olive oil) and a pack of 4 pan au raisin for S/16 (S/4 per pastry).
Both amazing for breakfast the next morning!!
We then moved onto the main dishes in the middle of the building.
There’s a ‘Barra Caliente’ (hot bar) to the left, serving food such as fried calamari, risotto de choclo (corn) and anticuchos….
….and a ‘Barra Frio’ (cold bar) to the right serving up ceviches, tiraditos and causa.
Both areas of this restaurant ‘Provisiones’ are run by Jaime Pesaque, another top name here in Peru. His restaurant Mayta is already successful in both Lima and Hong Kong (I believe another one will open in Dubai too), and he has other Peruvian restaurants located in Miami and Uruguay.
We were recommended the Costillas Adolescentes; glazed pork ribs with a Panca chilli BBQ sauce and coleslaw.
So, so delicious. The meat was ridiculously tender, the sauce was the perfect balance of sweet and savoury and the coleslaw had just a touch of acidity. I just wish it had been a bigger portion!
(Can I just mention that I really liked the cutlery and napkins in crates on the wall, which again makes it easier for you to move around the spaces at your leisure.)
The only desserts available are from the shop towards the back of the building; Maria Daplacer. Here you can pick up a suspiro or tres leches to finish your meal or perhaps enjoy with a coffee on the terrace.
Maria Daplacer is also a store to find many different products from all over Peru, from varieties of Peruvian chocolate to wooden chopping boards and decorative items. I’m absolutely in love with the thick wooden chopping boards and the pestle & mortars.
I will just say that some of the things in the hand-crafted section we found were a little over priced, especially the painted bulls, which you can find in the markets for about a third of the price. With that being said, the ones in Maria Daplacer are likely to be much better quality than anything you will find on the markets, but if you’re just looking for a little trinket then this probably isn’t the place to shop!
The back of the space is an open terrace with a cafe/coffee bar run by Harry Neira, a national champion barista with a passion for coffee. (If you want to read an interesting piece on Harry Neira, his coffee and the production, then you can read this article by Jimena Agois)
Being a warm day, I wanted something cooling , so I opted for the cold cacaoccino; cold brew coffee and 60% melted chocolate, from the producers of the award winning Cacaosuyo chocolate, served with milk over ice.
The 60% chocolate matched perfectly the bitter notes of the coffee, and both were given freshness from the ice and milk. A perfect drink for the climate and it even came with my name on it!
We also ordered espresso to taste the quality of the coffee itself, which was intense, thick and aromatic. We both loved it and noticed that you could also purchase it from the shop to have at home. Always a bonus!
The staff at the cafe were especially knowledgeable and chatty about their products and it was so nice to see them excited about their work.
Next to the terrace you will find another bar, but this time serving beers (international, national and cerveza artesenales) and teas, as well as lots of other food products from all over Peru.
Pastas, grains (like quinoa), sauces, salsas and salts, to name but a few!
When you have finished purchasing the entire menu from each section, head to the cashier in the centre to settle your bill…..and maybe purchase any chocolate on offer that you can see next to the till!
I gave in to the Xocolatl offer of 2 x 40g bars for S/10. Delicious chocolate and at half the normal price; it had to be done!! Hopefully the offer will still be on when you are there.
I thoroughly enjoyed my time in Perupa’ti, and I’m dying to try some more of their menu, including the bar menu, so I know another trip is definitely on the cards in the near future.
Keep your eyes peeled over the weekend for Part 2, where we border hop into Barranco for a bit of culture and art…
Perúpa’ti – Av. Armendáriz 546, Miraflores (It’s bright purple, you cannot miss it!)
Closed on Mondays. Parking available for both cars and bikes!